Castle Hill and Banks Peninsula

From Nelson Lakes we travelled over Lewis Pass, stopping for a couple of hours in the thermal pools of Hamner Springs before heading over the Canterbury Plains and up into the foothills and the Castle Hill Basin. We spent a few days here exploring the extensive limestone outcrops and boulders of Quantum Field, just a small part of the whole area! Plenty to go back to. It did however take a while to get used to the unique techniques of limestone friction climbing!

With sore hands and climbing muscles, we headed to the Banks Peninsula, for some spectacular sunny views of the harbour and rocky summits. Plans for a spot of climbing here were however cut short by the wet morning that we woke up to, so we decided to head into Christchurch.

Tim soloing the ultra classic splitter crack of Rembandit (21) at Quatum Field in Castle Hill Basin

(New Zealand's Font!)

Helen enjoying the blank slabs of Quantum Field

Banks Peninsula

Golden Bay and Nelson Lakes

Due to the brooding weather, we didn't stay long to explore the Sounds, somewhere to head back to sometime. We drove through Nelson and up and over Tarkaka hill to Golden Bay and the main climbing destination of the northern South Island; Paynes Ford. It continued to rain all through the night and it took most of the next day for the crag to dry so instead we went off to explore Farewell Spit and the rugged beaches of the West Coast. For the next few days we ticked off some classics at the Ford and the nearby Cathedral Rock near the Abel Tasman National Park before heading back up Tarkaka hill for some views across the rugged Kuaruanga National Park and Golden Bay and to visit Harwood's Hole, the biggest sink hole in the southern hemisphere, and the surrounding beech forest, used for scenes in Lord of the Rings.

The next stop was the fantastic alpine scenery of the Nelson Lakes National Park. We spent a sunny afternoon resting by the shore of one of the eponymous lakes (an activity severely hampered by the incessant sand flies) and preparing for the following day's tramp. The morning's cloud was slow to lift as we climbed the north flank of Mount Robert and set out on the fantastic journey along the Robert Ridge. The wide ridge eventually narrowed and we picked our way up, down and around rocky spurs and negotiated plenty of scree, but were rewarded with spectacular views of the adjacent ridges and the northern peaks of Southern Alps to the south. By mid afternoon we were descending to the Angelus Hut, nestled within the senic backdrop of the Angelus Basin. The next morning dawned crystal clear and we watched the sun rise over the St Arnaud range to the east, cloud pooling in valley beneath. We descended down Spearcrass Creek, having to cross back and forth over the stream more times than we can remember with a final stint back to the car park though the beech forest.


West Coast beaches


View from Cathedral Rock


Nelson Lakes National Park


Robert Ridge



Sunrise from the Angelus Hut

Lunchtime in Bongo. Meet Maty the Kiwi, the newest member of our travelling contingent!

Southern North Island

From Tongariro we drove along the senic Whanganui River Road and headed through North Palmerston to the Turara Forest Park, just north of Wellington, for a two day tramp along the alpine tops with fantastic views of both the east and west coasts of the North Island, the distant volcanoes of Mount Taranaki, Mount Ruapehu on the central plateau and even the South Island! This left us with a sunny day to explore Wellington before catching the Interislander Ferry (our ferry the Kaitia, formerly the Pride of Cherbough) across the Cook Strait and through the Marlborough Sounds to Picton.

Whanganui River

Tramping in the high Turara range up to the Jumbo Hut

Sunrise from the Jumbo Hut

The rare NZ blue caterpillar viewing the sunrise

Looking over the Wiarapa from Jumbo Hut

Wellington harbour from Mount Victoria

Tongario Northern Circuit

The weather looked good for our first day on the tramp so we set out early and completed the normal 'day one' in 2 and a bit hours so embarked on the most famous section of the trek; the Tongariro Alpine Crossing'. After climbing steeply for a hour, we decided to add a side trip up to the lofty summit of Mount Ngauruhoe, a perfect volcanic cone and another relentless 500m slog up its uniform scree slopes. At the top however, we were rewarded with fantasic views of the large Mount Ruepahu, Mount Tongariro itself and the enitre of Lake Taupo to the north. We carried on the circuit to the Ketahai Hut passing stunning craters and volcanic lakes.

The next day we descended into the moonscape of Outere Valley and traversed the eastern barren slopes of Mount Ngahoue to another hut. The final day however dawned wet and very misty and we trudged for 5 hours back to the start without seeing any views for a bit of a rest. It however a fantastic tramp!

Wharepapa South and Lake Taupo

After the Coromandel, we headed to Wharepapa South, the centre for climbing on the North Island with its wonderfully sculplted ingimbrite crags. On our first day we went to Froggatt crag, where,unlike its Peak District cousin, the routes were well bolted, steep and juggy. The follwing day we exlplore Sheridan Hills and Bayleys and the day after heading 30 minutes south to the recently developed Wipapa.

For a 'rest' day, the next day we visited volcanic and thermal parks around Taupo particualy, the magnificent colourful silica terrances of Orakei Korato and found a quiet place to stay in Kinloch on the northern shore of the lake.

The next day we tramped for 1 1/2 hours to the secluded Kawkawa Bay to enjoy its rhyolite crags and some sunny climbing above the lake. We were lucky to meet some other climbings with a boat so didn't have to tramp back, instead crusing back over the still waters of the lake.

The following morning, we headed to one of the best climbing areas in the whole of NZ: Whanganui Bay. We spent the afternoon ticking some classic trad cracks and corners on the magnificent rock architecture of its Main Wall. We managed a few more routes the next morning beforee our arms finally gave in, after 6 days of climbing!

Matakana (again) and Coromandel

Photos from Wharepapa South (see above text).

Our few days in matakan turned into a week and a few days! though we had a car for some of those days so were able to head into Auckland and a nearby nature park for a tranmp. And also had another visit to John and Kristal's farm. We did come out of though with a brand new cylinder head for Bongo.

So eventually we were back on the road and south south out of Auckland and the rest of our NZ adventure was underway! First stop was the rugged Coromandel Peninsular, SE of Auckalnd and the Kauaeranga Forest Park. the next day we did a long tramp to the rocky spires of The Pinnalces, following olf Kauri logging routes, for fantastic views of the while peninsular, followed by a brief dip in on of the swimming holes.

The next day we drove up the senic west coast and made the 30 minute tramp to the precipitous summit of Castle Rock, again rewarded with coast to coast views of the northern tip of the peninsular. The climbing looked so good that we went all the way down and back up, but this time with climbing gear, and enjoyed some long and fantastically exposed routes, high above the forest canopy below. Final stop of the day was the famous Hot Water Beach where we joined the other tourist digging our own hot pool in the sand to enjoy the thermal waters.

The following day we explore the senic coastline around Cathedral Cove and grove down the west coast to the wonderfully secluded Te Anui beach for an afternoon climbing on the sculpted orange and black rock.

On our final day in the area, we visited a colossal open gold mine of Awihi and explored the older gold mining workings and tunnels of the senic Karangahake Gorge.

Matakana and Northland

We've had an eventful few weeks since leaving Auckland. We've been tramping, climbing, kayaking, quad biking, tried our hands at fishing and even wild boar hunting (both to no success).

We've seen lots of bush and sandy beaches, been to caves and a waterfall, seen giant sand dunes and 2000 year old Kauri trees, a 90km long beach (called 90 mile beach), glow-worms but no Kiwi.

Helen driving to kayaks down to the estuary at John and Kristal's farm

Rock climbing at Ti Point

It all started about 100km north of Auckland on our first evening when the van broke down. After limping to the nearest garage the following morning, the mechanic said that it was going to take a week to get the parts and fix... but we could stay with him!! The disappointment of the temporary glitch to our travel plans was soon dissipated by a busy itinerary staying at Craig's friend's farm on the west coast and in the garage boss' caravan in the hills above Matakana.

Stripped Bongo (the van)

Late night fish and chips at Matakana Automotive

A week and a bit later we were off to explore Northland, visiting the northern tip of NZ and all the sights inbetween before limping back to Matakana again, things still weren't right with the van.

Sunset near the Bay of Islands

Cape Reinga, the most northern part of NZ

Tim attempting to cast into the surf at NZ's most northern campsite

So now we have a few more days to spend in Matakana and are still looking forward to heading south...